{"id":15,"date":"2017-10-19T07:23:55","date_gmt":"2017-10-19T07:23:55","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.bestoftuscany.com\/blog\/?p=15"},"modified":"2017-10-23T16:08:23","modified_gmt":"2017-10-23T16:08:23","slug":"36-hours-in-chianti","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.bestoftuscany.com\/blog\/36-hours-in-chianti\/","title":{"rendered":"36 Hours in Chianti"},"content":{"rendered":"<p class=\"paragraph\" style=\"line-height: 18.6pt;\">Stretching between Florence and Siena in the heart of\u00a0Tuscany, the Chianti wine region is the romanticized Italy of daydreams: terra-cotta-roofed towns, wine-soaked dinners and vineyards stitching sun-dappled hillsides. But hidden amid Chianti\u2019s winding roads and rolling hills are some surprisingly modern attractions. There\u2019s made-to-measure fashion, new standout architecture, and contemporary art worth a detour. Certainly, there are copious amounts of red wine waiting to be drunk, but don\u2019t expect kitschy straw-wrapped bottles or pizza-parlor reds. Today Chianti vintners are producing excellent, nuanced wines that are worthy of these scenic surroundings.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h3 class=\"paragraph\" style=\"line-height: 18.6pt; box-sizing: inherit;\"><strong style=\"box-sizing: inherit; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);\"><span style=\"font-family: 'Calibri',sans-serif;\">Friday<\/span><\/strong><\/h3>\n<p class=\"paragraph\" style=\"line-height: 18.6pt; box-sizing: inherit;\"><strong style=\"box-sizing: inherit; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);\"><span style=\"font-family: 'Calibri',sans-serif;\">3:30 p.m.<\/span><\/strong><b><br style=\"box-sizing: inherit;\" \/> <strong><span style=\"font-family: 'Calibri',sans-serif;\">1. Wine Structure<\/span><\/strong><\/b><\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph\" style=\"line-height: 18.6pt; box-sizing: inherit;\"><span style=\"background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);\">The Antinori clan has been producing wine in the region since the 1300s, but the family company, Marchesi Antinori, is now planting for the future. In the fall of 2012, a new, architecturally stunning winemaking facility called Antinori nel Chianti Classico was inaugurated. And in March, the glass-and-rusted-steel complex opened to the public for tours of its elegant cantina and grounds. The hourlong tour (20 euros, or $26 at $1.31 to the euro; by reservation) begins on an elevated walkway under the cantina\u2019s sloping terra-cotta-tiled ceiling and concludes in a glass-enclosed tasting room. There\u2019s also a small museum of artworks and wine artifacts, including an ancient wooden wine press whose design is linked to Leonardo da Vinci.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph\" style=\"line-height: 18.6pt; box-sizing: inherit;\"><strong style=\"box-sizing: inherit; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);\"><span style=\"font-family: 'Calibri',sans-serif;\">6 p.m.<\/span><\/strong><b><br style=\"box-sizing: inherit;\" \/> <strong><span style=\"font-family: 'Calibri',sans-serif;\">2. Pretty in Panzano<\/span><\/strong><\/b><\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph\" style=\"line-height: 18.6pt; box-sizing: inherit;\"><span style=\"background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);\">A hilltop village may be an unlikely location for stylish fashion, but at the leather-specialty shop Verso x Verso, in the small town of Panzano in Chianti, that\u2019s exactly what you\u2019ll find. Even more surprising is that all the beautiful clothing and accessories on display can be made to order. So would you prefer a rounded or square toe on that handmade pair of caramel-hued oxfords? Or would you like to be fitted for a bespoke jacket \u2014 the double-zippered style in orange goat suede is gorgeous \u2014 by the Florentine-trained designer herself? After placing your order, stroll down the cobblestone alleys of this medieval village and indulge in the sunset views.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph\" style=\"line-height: 18.6pt; box-sizing: inherit;\"><strong style=\"box-sizing: inherit; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);\"><span style=\"font-family: 'Calibri',sans-serif;\">8 p.m.\u00a0<\/span><\/strong><b><br style=\"box-sizing: inherit;\" \/> <strong><span style=\"font-family: 'Calibri',sans-serif;\">3. Dinner da Dario<\/span><\/strong><\/b><\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph\" style=\"line-height: 18.6pt; box-sizing: inherit;\"><span style=\"background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);\">Remain in Panzano to partake in the evening\u2019s carnivorous feast at Officina della Bistecca, a restaurant owned by the eighth-generation butcher Dario Cecchini. A convivial atmosphere pervades the long communal tables onto which course after course of meat arrives in different cuts and methods of preparation, from beef tartare to grilled Panzanese steak. Fittingly for a restaurant attached to a butcher shop, even the baked potatoes are accompanied by a jar of delectable, spreadable lardo \u2014 \u201cChianti butter.\u201d But the night\u2019s climax is the bistecca alla Fiorentina, which Dario himself exuberantly announces while proudly pumping a pair of the humongous steaks above his head like a victorious prizefighter in the ring. Dinner, including wine, water and grappa, is \u20ac50; reservations recommended.<\/span><\/p>\n<aside id=\"ad-4-container\" class=\"ad-wrapper ad-4-container lazyload\" data-ad=\"ad-4\" data-ad-position=\"mid1\"><\/aside>\n<h3><strong style=\"box-sizing: inherit; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);\">Saturday<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p class=\"paragraph\" style=\"line-height: 18.6pt; box-sizing: inherit;\"><strong style=\"box-sizing: inherit; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);\"><span style=\"font-family: 'Calibri',sans-serif;\">10 a.m.\u00a0<\/span><\/strong><b><br style=\"box-sizing: inherit;\" \/> <strong><span style=\"font-family: 'Calibri',sans-serif;\">4. Around the Piazza<\/span><\/strong><\/b><\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph\" style=\"line-height: 18.6pt; box-sizing: inherit;\"><span style=\"background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);\">Greve in Chianti is the region\u2019s principal town and the host of a long-running Saturday morning market. On Piazza Matteotti, the town\u2019s triangular main piazza, browse the temporary market stalls that surround a permanent monument to the navigator Giovanni da Verrazzano, whose family estate is nearby. Several small artisanal shops are also tucked under the pretty porticoes that ring the piazza. Don\u2019t miss La Bottega dell\u2019Artigianato, filled with hand-woven baskets and cutting boards carved from the wood of olive trees, or Antica Macelleria Falorni, a gloriously scented butcher shop that has been selling local salumi in the same location since the 18th century.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph\" style=\"line-height: 18.6pt; box-sizing: inherit;\"><strong style=\"box-sizing: inherit; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);\"><span style=\"font-family: 'Calibri',sans-serif;\">11:30 a.m.<\/span><\/strong><b><br style=\"box-sizing: inherit;\" \/> <strong><span style=\"font-family: 'Calibri',sans-serif;\">5. History Lesson<\/span><\/strong><\/b><\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph\" style=\"line-height: 18.6pt; box-sizing: inherit;\"><span style=\"background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);\">To learn about the history of Chianti\u2019s viticulture, visit the informative Museo del Vino (admission, \u20ac5; make weekend appointments in advance), where most exhibits are underground in former wine cellars. The collection spans hand-cranked wine presses, rudimentary corking contraptions and other old tools of the trade. But most interesting is the area that delves into local lore about another world-famous explorer with supposed ties to the region: Amerigo Vespucci, after whom the Americas were named.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph\" style=\"line-height: 18.6pt; box-sizing: inherit;\"><strong style=\"box-sizing: inherit; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);\"><span style=\"font-family: 'Calibri',sans-serif;\">1:30 p.m.\u00a0<\/span><\/strong><b><br style=\"box-sizing: inherit;\" \/> <strong><span style=\"font-family: 'Calibri',sans-serif;\">6. Liquid Lunch<\/span><\/strong><\/b><\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph\" style=\"line-height: 18.6pt; box-sizing: inherit;\"><span style=\"background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);\">Descend into the sprawling cellar of Le Cantine di Greve in Chianti for a light lunch of regional products. Starting with the vino, choose among scores of wines that are dispensed from high-tech machines designed to preserve wine quality after bottles are opened. Try a Tignanello, one of the original Super-Tuscans, or compare the Chianti Classico of different vineyards by using the simple automated system: insert a card purchased at the register (from \u20ac10), press the button corresponding to the wine you want, and out pours a taste into your glass. When you find a favorite, sit down at a marble-topped table beneath brick-and-stone arches and munch on a panino stuffed with fennel-flavored salami (\u20ac3) or a platter of pecorino and prosciutto crostini (\u20ac6). Finish the meal by sampling local olive oils or grappa.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph\" style=\"line-height: 18.6pt; box-sizing: inherit;\"><strong style=\"box-sizing: inherit; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);\"><span style=\"font-family: 'Calibri',sans-serif;\">4 p.m.\u00a0<\/span><\/strong><b><br style=\"box-sizing: inherit;\" \/> <strong><span style=\"font-family: 'Calibri',sans-serif;\">7. Ama Art<\/span><\/strong><\/b><\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph\" style=\"line-height: 18.6pt; box-sizing: inherit;\"><span style=\"background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);\">Down a bumpy dirt road in the countryside, the rural hamlet of Castello di Ama (current population: 4) is an unexpected setting for museum-worthy contemporary art. The \u201ctown\u2019s\u201d handful of handsome buildings are now part of the Castello di Ama winery \u2014 one of Chianti\u2019s finest \u2014 and house some of the works that the winery began commissioning over a decade ago. Today the collection consists of a dozen permanent pieces, including Anish Kapoor\u2019s glowing hole in the floor of a tiny stone chapel and Kendell Geers\u2019s crimson neon sign that reads \u201cRevolution\u201d (or \u201cLove,\u201d depending on your perspective) in a wine cellar. A two-hour guided visit of the winery (\u20ac35; book in advance) includes a tour of the artworks as well as a tasting of the estate\u2019s fruity olive oil, pressed on-site, and the prestigious wines of the vintner Marco Pallanti.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph\" style=\"line-height: 18.6pt; box-sizing: inherit;\"><strong style=\"box-sizing: inherit; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);\"><span style=\"font-family: 'Calibri',sans-serif;\">8:30 p.m.<\/span><\/strong><b><br style=\"box-sizing: inherit;\" \/> <strong><span style=\"font-family: 'Calibri',sans-serif;\">8. Local Dining<\/span><\/strong><\/b><\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph\" style=\"line-height: 18.6pt; box-sizing: inherit;\"><span style=\"background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);\">As the sun sets, gather for an al fresco meal at Mangiando Mangiando, a small osteria on Greve\u2019s main piazza that sources seasonal products from nearby farms. Beneath canary-yellow canopies, dine on crostini with local goat cheese, stuffed rabbit and pastas like fresh taglierini smothered in a succulent sauce with cinta senese pork. For dessert, try the classic combination of crunchy cantuccini with sweet vin santo. Dinner for two, about \u20ac50.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph\" style=\"line-height: 18.6pt; box-sizing: inherit;\"><strong style=\"box-sizing: inherit; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);\"><span style=\"font-family: 'Calibri',sans-serif;\">11 p.m.\u00a0<\/span><\/strong><b><br style=\"box-sizing: inherit;\" \/> <strong><span style=\"font-family: 'Calibri',sans-serif;\">9. No Red Ahead<\/span><\/strong><\/b><\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph\" style=\"line-height: 18.6pt; box-sizing: inherit;\"><span style=\"background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);\">Chianti has few worthwhile night-life options, but one exception is La Birroteca di Greve, a craft beer pub specializing in artisanal Italian brews. Outdoor tables overlook a large piazza and the town\u2019s modern new library; inside, there is a peppy soundtrack of \u201950s tunes. The pub\u2019s eight taps, whose offerings rotate weekly, recently featured the hoppy Marruca ale from the Tuscan microbrewery Birra Amiata and the K\u00f6lsch-style Rodersch from Birrificio Bi-Du, a brewery near Como (medium-size draft beer, \u20ac5).<\/span><\/p>\n<aside id=\"ad-10-container\" class=\"ad-wrapper ad-10-container lazyload\" data-ad=\"ad-10\" data-ad-position=\"mid2\"><\/aside>\n<p><strong style=\"box-sizing: inherit; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);\">Sunday<\/strong><\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph\" style=\"line-height: 18.6pt; box-sizing: inherit;\"><strong style=\"box-sizing: inherit; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);\"><span style=\"font-family: 'Calibri',sans-serif;\">11 a.m.\u00a0<\/span><\/strong><b><br style=\"box-sizing: inherit;\" \/> <strong><span style=\"font-family: 'Calibri',sans-serif;\">10. Handmade Treats<\/span><\/strong><\/b><\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph\" style=\"line-height: 18.6pt; box-sizing: inherit;\"><span style=\"background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);\">The village of Castellina in Chianti is a lovely hilltop maze of terra-cotta and stone, complete with a long vaulted passageway that tunnels through the medieval town walls. But the town is also home to L\u2019Antica Delizia, a gelateria that is among the finest in Tuscany. At this family-run shop, choose among flavors that often include imaginative offerings like ricotta-and-pear or dark-chocolate-ginger. Then take your treat on a stroll to the nearby showroom of Lucia Volentieri, a Tuscan artist whose varied oeuvre includes iron sculptures, pastel-hued watercolors and delicate bas-relief ceramics. If the shop is open (hours vary), admire the detailed pieces up close; otherwise settle for marveling through the large windows.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph\" style=\"line-height: 18.6pt; box-sizing: inherit;\"><strong style=\"box-sizing: inherit; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);\"><span style=\"font-family: 'Calibri',sans-serif;\">12:30 p.m.\u00a0<\/span><\/strong><b><br style=\"box-sizing: inherit;\" \/> <strong><span style=\"font-family: 'Calibri',sans-serif;\">11. Buried Treasures<\/span><\/strong><\/b><\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph\" style=\"line-height: 18.6pt; box-sizing: inherit;\"><span style=\"background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);\">Prominently situated in the middle of Castellina is an impressive stone fortress with a tall crenelated tower, built for defense in the Middle Ages. Today only peaceful proceedings take place inside the structure, which houses the Archaeological Museum of Chianti Senese (admission, \u20ac5). The museum features ancient artifacts from area excavations, including many from Etruscan settlements that were first discovered over a century ago. Take a peek into the present-day work being performed in the adjoining research area and, for those who can\u2019t get enough of all things Etruscan, get driving directions to nearby sites, such as the burial mound at Monte Calvario.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph\" style=\"line-height: 18.6pt; box-sizing: inherit;\"><strong style=\"box-sizing: inherit; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);\"><span style=\"font-family: 'Calibri',sans-serif;\">3 p.m.\u00a0<\/span><\/strong><b><br style=\"box-sizing: inherit;\" \/> <strong><span style=\"font-family: 'Calibri',sans-serif;\">12. Sculpted Beauty<\/span><\/strong><\/b><\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph\" style=\"line-height: 18.6pt; box-sizing: inherit;\"><span style=\"background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);\">On the half-hour drive from Castellina to the Chianti Sculpture Park, through bucolic hills draped in vineyards and olive groves, sublime views unfold around each hairpin turn. But once you arrive at the 17-acre park (admission, \u20ac7.50), the sights are best discovered on foot. Simply follow the wooded half-mile trail that winds past 20-odd sculptures in a multitude of materials and styles. Along the way, you can spiral through a life-size labyrinth made of glass cubes, and gaze under the bridge of bright blue tiles that, on clear days, frames the dreamy skyline of Siena in the distance.<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Stretching between Florence and Siena in the heart of\u00a0Tuscany, the Chianti wine region is the romanticized Italy of daydreams: terra-cotta-roofed&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":95,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[6],"tags":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v20.11 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>36 Hours in Chianti - Best Of Tuscany | Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.bestoftuscany.com\/blog\/36-hours-in-chianti\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"36 Hours in Chianti - 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